The iridescent abalone shell inlay on the Copper Man mask seems to hold within it the turquoise tones of Howe Sound’s glacial waters, kelp and conifer forests and the surrounding silvery mountains, which have all spurred and sustained legends and legacies here for thousands of years. The epic lifecycle of salmon. The story of a magical copper hoop stolen from a villainous wizard to be transformed into the man who became the mask’s namesake. The discovery of that same copper by settlers, followed by environmental devastation. And now, the rebirth of a village and a new chapter in a shapeshifting story.
Standing at Memorial Park in Britannia Village, I’m mesmerized by the cedar mask’s unwavering gaze and its pale strands of horse hair swaying in the wind, as its maker, Jim Charlie, Skwxwú7mesh (Squamish) Nation carver and artist, shares some words about his creation. This mask, and trio of cedar panels Charlie carved called Salmon People, were unveiled in celebration of the completed reconstruction and revitalization of the century-old village, best known for its copper mine (now a museum) that was once the largest in the British Commonwealth. Over the seven decades it operated after opening in 1904, more than 50 million tons of ore were extracted from the mine.
While wandering among the buildings repainted in historically accurate colours, it’s hard to fathom that 60,000 workers and their families from more than 50 countries once lived in this idyllic area—including Britannia Beach, Mount Sheer and Jane Basin—a 45-minute drive from both Whistler and Vancouver. I imagine the stories people could tell about life here during the village’s heyday.
Some, in fact, have shared their first-hand experiences of working in the copper mine and living in Britannia’s bunkhouses in the 1950s, says Donal O’Callaghan, architect and chief development officer at Macdonald Communities Limited, the company that reclaimed the mining village and revitalized it as a commercial centre. During construction, a man in his eighties stopped by the site several times. “I walked him over to one of the bunkhouses,” O’Callaghan says, where the man pointed out his bunk, clearly emotional about his former home being saved. “Those are the kind of little rewards that you get along the way.”
Britannia Village’s latest story began decades ago when Macdonald acquired 10,000 acres of privately owned land the mine was located on, and subdivided and dedicated 9,500 acres back to the Province of British Columbia for environmental remediation. The area’s waterways were dead zones due to copper runoff flowing through the old mine site’s tunnels. After an extensive clean-up effort, the salmon came back in 2011, and in 2021 the Átl’ḵa7tsem/Howe Sound and surrounding watershed was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Region.
Today, Britannia Village is the only reclaimed mining town in Western Canada. “When you save a building, it’s not going to the landfill,” says O’Callaghan, who describes how most of the old structures were “picked up, moved, left up in the air [on cranes]. We built new foundations and basements underneath them, set them down, and then we had to fill the whole site with two metres of fill for flood-proofing and also to cap any potential contaminant.” The buildings’ insides were also pulled apart for structural and seismic upgrades. From start to finish, the project took about three years. “The logistics were kind of crazy,” says O’Callaghan. He estimates that about 75 percent of the materials were saved.
That includes first-growth Douglas fir siding, which bears a well-earned patina, along with other callbacks to the past, like nail holes in the ceilings and wall panelling at Beaucoup Bakery, which occupies the main floor of the 1936 Ritz Bunkhouse; upstairs are two of the village’s 14 rental units, offered below market value to local staff. The long, covered porch is a peaceful place to enjoy a flaky pain au chocolate or matcha-glazed cruller and views of the mine museum backdropped by Mount Sheer.
Nearby is York Bunkhouse, another two-storey structure with rental housing upstairs. (Like the Ritz, it was named for a swanky hotel.) On the main floor, Copper & Fern Boutique sells local and Canadian items, from sustainable soaps and oilskin totes made in Pemberton to works from artists like Jennifer Alton who captures the wonder of landscapes in pointillism. After shopping, I follow the aroma of wood-oven pizza to the General Store. Comprised of two buildings that were the dining room (1936) and bunkhouse (1946) for miners, it’s a go-to for picnic provisions and snacks.
Each of Britannia’s heritage buildings presented a bit of an enigma, O’Callaghan says, requiring a distinctive solution to preserve the past. “You can’t fabricate history,” he adds. But it can be given a new life. The 1916 former theatre and playhouse is one of the village’s oldest structures. People once gathered inside the tongue-and-groove-cladded building for live performances and film screenings. The heritage report on the village states that “opening night at the theatre was a formal occasion and all the dances were long-dress affairs.” Those days are over, but the new rental suite and loft retains the original curved vaulted ceiling.
I read the plaques affixed to the exterior of the village’s buildings to learn their history. Completed in 1953, the former church, which features an exposed vaulted ceiling, round-arched wooden-sash windows and gabled entry porch, sits parallel to Britannia Creek and now houses Kawartha Dairy. The Ontario family business is continuing its story here, its first foray in Western Canada. Steps away is Autostrada Oyster Bar, which serves BC seafood like Dungeness crab salad and oysters from Barclay Sound. Located in the 1927 school (an extension was added in 1950), subtle design solutions reflect O’Callaghan’s ethos in creating “connectivity between the original structure and the new use.” For instance, the original windows were retained—removed, taken apart, deglazed, stripped, repainted and reinstalled—and the bar tops are reclaimed vintage wood. The collar ties in the gabled ceiling were left exposed, rather than covered with drywall, for authentic character.
These thoughtful touches make the revitalization of Britannia Village more than simply a construction project. As I wander among the buildings under bluebird skies, I get a series of object lessons about culture, history, sustainability and community[BS1] .
“It seems like everybody has a personal Britannia story,” says O’Callaghan, who envisions a future chapter for the village, one that extends across the highway to 11 acres of underused waterfront. The languishing Customs House, formerly a gallery, could showcase Indigenous art, while the old warehouse could be reborn as a grand picnic shelter and event space for farmers’ markets. Everything would be connected to nature with a multi-use waterfront pathway.
But for now, there’s plenty to celebrate. This spring brings another rebirth, with the revival of the annual mining days celebration in May, 100 years after the first event was held in 1926. And Jim Charlie’s Salmon People triptych, which tells the important story of the fish returning to this historic spot, is another reminder of the cycle of life. So is his Copper Man mask, a tribute to the skilled hunter and fast runner who was revered by villagers for his generosity, supernatural strength and, most of all, his community spirit, a story that continues to endure in this revitalized village.
- Beaucoup Bakery & Café (Ritz Bunkhouse)
Enjoy a taste of France, West Coast-style, devouring all-butter croissants or sandwiches on house-made focaccia - Copper & Fern (York Bunkhouse)
Get some dog treats from Squamish-based Kingdom Fungi for your furry companions - General Store (dining room and bunkhouse)
Fuel up at this modern take on the classic general store, which offers everything from espresso drinks and liquor to wood-fired pizza and picnic provisions - Autostrada Oyster Bar & Grill (former school)
Drink in views of Howe Sound while sipping a Squasmopolitan and dining on local seafood like BC albacore tuna crudo and classic clam chowder - Kawartha Dairy (former church)
Grab a cone of Black Raspberry Thunder (or a bucket to take home), Sugar Shack Maple or old-school Tiger Tail to enjoy while exploring the historic buildings